
I’ll always remember an incident that happened on my first business trip to Australia. The strictness of the Australian customs is legendary but I thought I didn’t have anything to worry about simply because I wasn’t carrying any food. I thought I was cleared until I came to another checkpoint and another officer asked me the same questions and when I replied in the negative, he continued to ask quite seriously, “Are you sure? No tea? Coffee? Milo? Nasi Lemak?”
“Nasi Lemak?! No.” I said tersely with a look of disdain and he waved me through. Why on earth anyone want to smuggle Nasi Lemak all the way from Singapore to Adelaide? On looking back, I had perhaps underestimated the Singaporean obsession with food. Much has been said about food and how it defines the Singaporean identity. It is undeniable that food is the one thing which can really unite very different Singaporeans.
I spent last year living as a student in London. It is not my first time living here; I spent 9 months in London on a working holiday five years ago. The only difference between my experiences , is how much more I missed Singaporean food! Perhaps, it was because this time, I had a small community of about ten friends from Singapore in the UK with me.The ten of us were all involved in the arts in one way or another so when we met, the conversation inevitably comes to the arts and food.

We might have had very different views about arts and almost everything under the sun but when it came to Singaporean food, we all agreed on the same thing. We love it, we missed it and it’s the best food in the world!
We all had become some sort of expert of sorts at cooking even though we hadn’t cooked much back home. We’d share tips on where to find the best Singaporean/ Malaysian eating places in London and where to get the cheapest Asian produce in London. If Singaporeans are foodies, then imagine the obsession of food-deprived overseas Singaporeans!
We craved something not because we actually wanted it, but because we wanted the memory of how that particular food made us feel. We wanted it because it reminded us of our friends, family and home. We once had someone import Ngoh Hiang skin because we wanted to make our own ngoh hiang since it just is not sold here.
One of the first parties we had as a group was themed as a Comfort Food Party where we each had to prepare our favourite comfort food from home. The menu included Vegetarian Bee Hoon, Chicken Curry, Laksa, Prawn Keropok, Sambal Goreng , Sambal Kangkong, Petai & Ikan Bilis Sambal and Bak kwa! We were quite satiated even if the tempeh in the sambal goreng was from Belgium and wrapped in plastic instead of leaves and the laksa had no hum (cockles) and made with Prima instant mix.
After that first party, we kept in touch…sharing our culinary adventures, trying out new recipes and posting the photos of the results on Facebook, commenting on each other’s photos and often congratulating ourselves even though we did not quite replicate the authentic taste of the food from home.After all, you can cook the food yourself but it can never beat the experience of ‘going to buy the wanton mee from downstairs cos mum didn’t cook tonight’.

Which brings me back to the issue of food smuggling.
I now know who’d smuggle nasi lemak to Adelaide; my guess would be a homesick nasi-lemak deprived Singaporean…just like one of my friends who got his boyfriend to smuggle Wanton Mee from the ‘downstairs coffeeshop’ all the way to London. Don’t ask me how he did it.
To this day, I still do not understand the nitty gritty of the smuggling operation. I’d have to say that I couldn’t really identify with the extreme of importing hawker food…but then again, I was lucky that my only craving was limited to more manageable foodstuff like crispy nyonya prawn rolls and pineapple tarts from Tiong Bahru, which are allowed.
But I guess if those weren’t allowed in, I might have resorted to smuggling them as well. I now feel guilty for scoffing at a friend who had asked for epok-epok to be delivered to her in Italy a few years ago. I guess that customs officer in Australia had seen his fair share of such cases.
Just recently, I found out that another friend has managed to smuggle screwpine leaves (that’s pandan leaves to us!) into Spain and was happily looking forward to cooking Nasi Lemak. He seemed very proud of his accomplishment and so I didn’t have the heart to tell him that another friend in Aberdeen had two tubs of home-cooked Nasi Lemak delivered to her the month before.
I’m so glad to be home. But if I go back to the UK, and if ever a customs officer asks me if I have Nasi Lemak in my bag, I might just smile, say no and hope he takes my word for it.
***
I’ve never really been a big eater of Singaporean hawker food. I enjoy eating but I don’t consciously have to have Singaporean dishes. I found out that my Singaporean friends in the UK feel the same way too. So I’ve always wondered why we actually crave Singaporean food. Did we take Singaporean hawker food for granted because they are ubiquitous? Do we really don’t know what we have until we don’t have them anymore? Do we really crave food from home because we miss the food itself or because we miss all of the things associated with the food?
RYDWAN ANWAR
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THE MAGICAL is the fifth episode in WRITING THE CITY, a six part online creative writing programme written and presented by Singapore Literature Prize Winner Suchen Christine Lim and UK author Jeremy Sheldon.
Through the series, a complementary programme to TIONG BAHRU, Jeremy and Suchen take you through the concepts that lie behind creative writing and invite viewers to respond to each concept through a writing task that takes as its starting point the relationship between writing and the urban environment.
THE MAGICAL is directed by Singaporean filmmaker Victric Thng, and was filmed on Bedok Jetty on the island’s East Coast.

In the episode, Suchen and Jeremy talk about how the magical is rendered in writing, and the contrast between bewteen Eastern and Western philosophies with respect to the supernatural.
THE MAGICAL features extracts from What The Jetty Heard, a short story by Raffles Institute student Theophilus Kwek which came out of a writing workshop led by Jeremy and Suchen in Toa Payoh in 2008. You can read the full story by Theophilus, here.

More on Writing The City
You can see the other films in the series by clicking on the links below.

Watch Episode 1 of the series, The Writer’s Eye, here.
Watch Episode 2 of the series, Characters, here.
Watch Episode 3 of the series, Encounters, here.
Watch Episode 6 of the series, The Individual And The City, here.
Watch a P.S. to the series, Looking Forward, here.
More on Writing
Throughout the Civic Life project in Singapore, leading writers have shared their thoughts with us on ideas of identity, belonging and community.
You can read three pieces, which feature in the booklet accompanying the TIONG BAHRU DVD, below.
Ng Yi-Sheng on the ever-changing landscape of Singapore.
Alvin Pang on a geography of Singapore mapped through personal reminiscences.
Tan Shzr Ee on the rich linguistic identity of Singapore and Singaporeans.
In a special story for this, the month of the Hungry Ghost Festival, Theo Kwek shares with the TIONG BAHRU blog his short story What The Jetty Heard, inspired by the iconic Bedok Jetty.
Theo’s wistful story, written in 2009, features in the fifth of the Writing The City filmlets, looking at The Magical in fiction writing, which you can also view, here. Enjoy them both!

What The Jetty Heard
Let me tell you a story.
Here there is sky the colour of the leaves, sky that blooms an emerald blue but only when you don’t look at it. Once in a while rare flowers spring from the sky; most often it rustles with the scent of casuarinas, and you simply know that it is there.
A single jetty sinks towards the surface of the water ever so slightly with the weight of a dozen families. At the same time it embraces the sky, with whom it spends dark-grey afternoons while the waves churn beneath. Somehow in the periphery of your vision there will also be children, there will be frisbees and there will be the stuff of sandcastles, but if you wait and look very quietly for very long, there will always be the jetty and its sky sitting softly on the beach, looking beyond you into the distance.
***
Tuesday afternoons a man appears on the land-edge of the jetty in jogging gear; he is middle-aged, though not yet graying.
You do not know him but you are immediately given the impression that you do, you have seen his close-layered mop and incumbent spectacles somewhere – reading in the park, getting into the cab you leave, on a page of the morning daily. A son has given him earphones, and these now play quiet nostalgia at him.
Reluctantly in his footsteps a young man follows, a ponytail dusting the air from his shoulders. From a distance the pair seems to echo the lopsided symmetry of a forgotten smile, as they move towards the end of the jetty, past the half-time fishermen and the fifty-cent ice-creams.
When they reach the joint beyond which all one sees is blue, he asks him tentative questions; Maurice shall I keep some food for you tonight? Or Maurice who else is going on this, holiday with you, besides Tom? Sometimes these questions take on edges of timid anxiety, Maurice have you decided what to do with your life yet?
But always, the disdainful half-reply – Dad, it’s Maureen. And here the conversation halts, snipped by the sea wind.
His shoulders fall suddenly and imperceptibly into broken footsteps, even when the blue is an inviting one his eyes flicker with a planted tiredness.
Hands worn smooth by the office find the railing for security, where fingers remember childhood calluses, and drum in anticipation of home with its empty dinner-table.

Hearing the uneven beat ragged as his breath, and watching the young man slink away towards the car-park, the jetty begins to heave itself upwards with the tide, brimming with comfort to whisper in his ear.
But each Tuesday the earphones choose a livelier song and the man turns back to run, leaving the jetty flat in exhaustion.
***
Wednesdays come and go, Thursday noon-times bring with them a young lady who sings the name Tina to herself. It is from Christina, which her birth certificate claims she was named before and ago.
Unlike the first man she does not run, but walks regally down the salt-sprayed stone, slow enough to greet the lamp-posts but fast enough to get to the end before her stepmother calls, and asks where she is.
When she reaches this sea-end, she swings to the left where the faded arrow on the footpath points to her right, and sits herself beside Zulhaqim. They watch the point where the water kisses the sky.
She has done this all her life, slipping from home between awkward encounters, and finding the spot that Zulhaqim saves for her every Thursday.
He is four times her age but the seat he leaves is always the one further from the other fishermen, the one where it is easier for dangled feet to pretend to reach the water.
Here she tells him about school and other things, and after he has made her laugh they share something from his catch, roasted on the spot over a small electric stove.
Occasionally their mirth is shared by a brahminy kite, drawn from its linear flight by the aroma of delectable joy. It calls out their joint hilarity to the waves with each gem of Zulhaqim’s humor, except for the week that he does not come. She is as curious as it is.
Kenapa tida datang? Why weren’t you here?
I am an old man, he switches to English for her sake. And doctor said last Wednesday, soon you will be alone on the jetty.
The kite falls silent, and buries its head in the water. Unforgiving stone does not afford her this luxury, and instead she buries him in her arms, staying that way so he will not see her eyes fill up after they have dealt with her shock.
The old man and the girl and the sea sit that way for an hour, perhaps two, while the air weeps in their silence. His crimson buoy in the water is tugged by many fishes but today there is no catch. Sighing beneath them, the jetty collects their tears and gives them as pearls to lonely oysters; hopefully one day they will be her dowry.
***

Still Sundays are always the most painful, as things concerning first loves are.
Towards sunset a couple leaves the bridge, you can make out their figures outlined against throbbing sky. They have been there for two hours, which are their happiest in the entire week, and the jetty’s saddest.
It used to be just she who would appear on Sunday evenings, singing a wistful song to the faint silhouette, of a distant island. Those evenings had brought the jetty a strange and confused joy, for it had fallen in love with her the first time she hoisted herself onto its palm, her dark eyes glistening with tears and saltwater. Each Sunday after that the jetty’s heart would leap, unspeakably, then sink again as she knelt to its stone, weeping for her sister and her home.
Now she comes with him, and she does not weep anymore.
As they sit cross-legged and he cradles her touchingly she lifts her eyes from her hometown to the sunset.
She calls him Manuel and he calls her Yani, which is not her real name – the jetty has heard her call herself Azilah. But this does not matter to her, as it does not matter that she speaks to him in broken English and he replies in the same; for she cannot understand Tagalog or he, Malay.
You beautiful, he musters, and she translates, saya chantek, her words melding into his like dollops of cream into scalding coffee.
They proceed to exchange secrets and nothings, and beneath their warmth the jetty averts its eyes, cowering beneath shame and silent affection.
When they finally part the jetty is as silent as before, but it is a very different kind of silence. After a few moments it prays that she has returned, perhaps safely to her household.
***
All this the jetty has kept to itself for as long as it can remember, and the stories accumulate into a permanence on its pillars.
On days when the sun beats brighter the jetty looks into the sky and asks: why, why, do I not have enough secrets, that you try to fill me with more?
And inadvertently the sky replies, ask the sun, ask the sun, but as for me I would like to know what your many secrets are. To which the jetty has always given a firm and deliberate no, it sees itself the keeper of stories with an office of potent trust.

It is an answer that mildly angers the sky.
Have we not been friends enough, the sky asks, that you cannot share these thoughts with me? What blessing have I not shared with you, in my sun and rain and clouds? There is nothing that is mine that you have not seen, but still your secrets are secret from me.
In fact the sky is not truly angry, it is genuinely and worriedly concerned, but it is the gift of those who bear the wind to fluctuate between moods like the weather. In return the jetty is calm and collected.
These are not my secrets, it murmurs, they are the secrets of others!
This is a lie, but at this the sky will leave the jetty alone. They have known each other long enough to understand each other so.
***
One day in many days, there is a sudden fading from the air, and orioles with impossible voices disappear into white grey. The jetty notices something is amiss. It cannot tell which day of the week it is, because the customary shadows are gone; there is no sign of the man in the running shorts or the double-plaited girl, or even the indelicate couple. A number of unfamiliar souls continue to fish the lapping waters, but otherwise the coast is unusually somber.
Even the casuarinas have paused their sway. No laughing children prance onto the jetty, the last couple finds that they do not know what to say to each other, and turn to leave without holding hands. With them a number of fishermen reel in their lines and pack their equipment while the others stay on, addicted to the possibility of catch. But these are stoic individuals whose secrets are cast out like bait.
Loneliness sweeps over the jetty. There are no stories today, none at all.
In the instant of realizing this the jetty feels impossibly alone with the thought of all the stories it bears, and even those of its own. All these people share little parts of themselves with me, the jetty muses, and I do enjoy sharing them but, I can’t do anything about them.
Sky, sky, the jetty asks. Do you ever hear the secrets of people?
Of course I do, old friend, the sky smiles. You don’t know how many people hurl angry prayers in my direction.
But do you hear them think, the jetty persists, at the tops of tall buildings or even in planes, and do some of their thoughts stay with you?
I do not, the sky concedes, and they do not. Do people leave things with you?
Look under me, says the jetty.
I can’t, says the sky.
You can, says the jetty, bend and try.

So the sky does, slipping itself into the silver of air beneath the jetty at low tide. On the grey and crusted belly of the jetty the sky is taken aback as it sees seaweed and barnacles in heartfelt recesses. Among them are words and sentences strewn into paragraphs of time by the absence of hands. There are half-tales of memories, some old and some fresh.
These the sky begins to read with an interested fervor, pausing only to catch its breath or shed a rainy tear. Soon the sky meets Maureen and Tina and Azilah and the others, neatly woven into stories amidst distant islands, overgrown pearls and unfinished thoughts.
Who are these stories, asks the sky, where are they from?
When the jetty replies it is with the simultaneous nervousness and relief of one who has just let out many heavy secrets.
These are the people who come to walk by the sea with their sorrows, sky.
And then the jetty begins to tell the sky long and starkly possible stories of the people it has met, tentatively at first, then gushingly and eloquently.
As the sky listens its attention is drawn away from the clouds and the rain, and it catches on to each vignette of hope and longing, of confidence and self-doubt. Where there are tiny missing details the jetty embellishes with made-up names and places, which gives it a twinge of guilt. But it consoles itself that the essential stories are the same, and these stories are what the sky wants to hear.
Still, at the end of its telling, it remembers the cause for its loneliness, and instead of the triumphal ending the sky has been expecting, it breaks down into tears.
I know all this, sobbed the jetty, but I can’t do anything!
I do not see the need to do anything, says the sky. It is slightly miffed and returns to its temperamental self, even though something inside it has changed in the hearing of the stories.
But –
We cannot do anything, the sky interrupts and continues. You are fixed in the seabed for eternity, and I cannot leave my place up here. But it is only because we cannot change where we are that we are given to hear these things. Don’t you think that by hearing, simply hearing, we can already make things better?
Sky, asks the jetty, for it is confused. Do you think they know that we listen?
They do not, the sky responds, with a little tinkling laugh. They are too busy listening to themselves to hear us beside them. But I see them as they leave you, and they are smiling.
You are not just here to keep them from walking into the sea; you give them each a bit of yourself, a space where they can meet them. And for this, I am very proud of you.

When the sky says this it means every last word of it, for its heart is bursting with the knowing of such a friend.
The jetty ponders on this point, on and after the day is over. Gradually with the shifting of the waves and the sand upon the shore, the jetty begins to see that the sky is right.
***
If you wash yourself onto the beach any of these days, you might be a teacher, a nurse, a priest, or simply someone who has heard more confessions than those of your own.
And you will find the jetty and its sky sitting softly there, still there.
The former is curving slightly under the weight of a dozen families, while the latter is comforted in its embrace.
As you sit and watch you will occasionally see the sky slip downwards, a little bit, and you will know that a still day has come, and once again the jetty is telling the sky stories.
But if you step onto the jetty, then forget all of this.
Forget the starkly possible stories and faint recollections that are told and retold in the things we don’t say.
Think about your secrets, breathe them and drop them.
The jetty will smile knowingly underfoot and listen as it always has, then weave you a story as a manner of farewell.
Afterwards as you leave, remember to leave the jetty a smile, and wave a goodbye to the sky.
They will smile and wave back, only you will never know.
Preparation, Procrastination, Pressure – the three steps towards artistic production, according to playwright Huzir Sulaiman, in this fascinating and resonant TedX talk.
In the talk, Huzir reflects on the role of mentoring and teaching, the importance of being part of a creative community for young writers, and the creative process itself being ‘a mixture of marathons and sprints, sprints and marathons. The steady plod of quiet craftsmanship and the burst of wild genius’.

Huzir works across different media, art forms, and genres, telling stories that allow people to access complex ideas in simple, personal, human ways. He is the Joint Artistic Director of Checkpoint Theatre, which the Financial Times (UK) called “a repository of much of [Singapore's] best stage talent.”
A celebrated playwright, his plays include the internationally acclaimed satire Atomic Jaya (1998), which asks what would happen if Malaysia decided to build an atomic bomb, and the forthcoming The Weight of Silk on Skin (August 2011), a meditation on women, beauty, love and loss, which will be presented as part of the Man Singapore Theatre Festival by W!LD RCE, which runs from 3 August to 21 August.
Sulaiman also writes for film, television and newspapers, and teaches playwriting at the National University of Singapore.
To book tickets for The Weight of Silk on Skin, visit the Man Singapore Theatre Festival, here.
Sinema Old School presents a series of four award-winning green-themed films that will get you to sit up and take notice of the ever-changing environment around us, in its Green Screen: Films for A Greener World festival.
The feature documentaries – Tapped (2009), Plastic Planet (2009), Bag It (2011), Carbon Nation (2011) – examine the impact of human consumption of the Earth’s resources on the environment today, serving as a wake-up call to the world — before it’s too late.
Check out the trailer for Tapped, looking at the true and growing costs of our dependence on bottled water, below.
The films will be screening from 5-20 August 2011.
Full film synopses and information are available, along with ticketing information, at the Sinema Old School site, here.
In the 1960s most Singaporeans lived in poor rental accommodation or in shanty towns. Today 87% of the population live in flats built by the government in a country with one of the highest population densities in the world.
So, what can be learned from the Singapore story?
In this documentary from ABC Radio’s Rear Vision series, journalist Annabelle Quince investigates. Click on the image below to listen.

Watch David Gan’s Paintings, an entry in the Where The Heart Is competition, for a portrait of an HDB estate undergoing a lick of new paint, below, while also do check out Diya Tan’s affectionate documentary about life Downstairs in the void decks of HDB estates.
You can check out three more excellent ABC radio documentaries on Singapore, below.
Meeting with contemporary Singaporean poets.
Singapore’s cultural landscape explored.
Singapore’s visual arts scene.
The third in the Unseen/Unsaid series of short films gives a personal perspective on the significance of the recently-closed Tanjong Pagar railway station to generations of immigrants to Singapore.
Check out more about the project at www.rediscover.sg
Trains also figure in this beautiful short film celebrating the women of La Patrona, Veracruz in Mexico and their quest for human solidarity.
As the trains with their cargoes of human traffic head north to the United States, carrying the dreams of migrants and their families who stay behind, a hand of friendship is extended by the woman of La Patrona.

A reminder of our common humanity, the film had us in tears when we realised what is actually going on.
Please watch and pass on!
See also Dulce Pinzón’s The Real Story of the Superheroes, casting migrants from Mexico as the real superheroes of the United States, here.

Following on from this, do check out Finding Home Away From Home, in which foreign workers in Singapore seek out spaces that they can call their own.
This image is part of a series, exploring the public spaces that have adopted by the migrant workers of Singapore, if only for an evening.
You can see the complete series at Reclaim Land, a site set up by four journalism students to explore how ordinary people have created their own places despite living in the city-state of Singapore that is just over 700 kilometres-square in size — so small that some have called it a “little red dot”.
Watch Joe Lawlor and Christine Molloy’s Civic Life film about the African migrant community of Dublin, in the iconic street market of Moore Street, below.
See also below When The Day Begins, directed by Prashant Somosundram, the winner of The People’s Choice Award, in the Civic Life: Tiong Bahru project’s short film competition, Where The Heart Is. The film documents the Lembu Road space in Little India, Singapore, where migrant workers of mainly Bangladeshi origin gather and socialise in a space that has evolved to remind them of home.
Visit the Where The Heart Is vimeo channel here.
We are delighted to tell everyone that TIONG BAHRU has been selected to tour Australia, as part of the Travelling Sydney Film Festival, and has also been selected for Dublin Contemporary, Ireland’s leading visual arts exhibition.
In Australia, the film will be screening alongside the highly acclaimed feature Le Quattro Volte by director Michelangelo Frammartino, and will play in towns and cities across Northern Territory, Queensland and New South Wales over the next six months.
In Dublin, the film plays across September and October at Earlsfort Terrace.

The tour Down Under kicked off in Huskisson, NSW on 28th August, and now heads to towns and cities across the 3 states including Newcastle, Alice Springs, Cairns and Darwin.

For full details of the touring program, visit the Travelling Sydney Film Festival website, here.
See where TIONG BAHRU has played around the world so far, here.
Find out more about Le Quattro Volte, here, and watch the trailer below.
This stunning short film celebrates the women of La Patrona, Veracruz and their quest for human solidarity.


As the trains with their cargoes of human traffic head north to the United States, carrying the dreams of migrants and their families who stay behind, a hand of friendship is extended by the woman of La Patrona in the Mexican state of Veracruz.
A reminder of our common humanity, the film had us in tears when we realised what is actually going on.
Please watch and pass on!
Read more about the women of La Patrona, here.
See also Dulce Pinzón’s body of work casting migrants from Mexico as the real superheroes of the United States, here.
Clare Patey is an artist and curator. Her work explores participation, cultivation, food, conversation, celebration and issues around climate change.
In the clip below, Clare talks about her fantastic work, linking communities and schoolchildren with the growing cycle.
Clare has worked as artist in residence for Friends of the Earth, as director of The Museum Of, and as the curator of Feast and Old Dog New Trick for LIFT.


Clare was the award winning production designer for the documentary Human Footprint for Channel 4 and curator of Sheds and Beds for the re-opening of the Southbank Centre.
She is currently the annual curator of Feast on the Bridge for the Thames Festival and has developed a contemporary ration book with The Ministry of Trying to do Something About It, in collaboration with nef.
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